Bona Fide Confidence

BLAZER OR SPORT COAT? Contrary to popular belief, they’re not one and the same. The term blazer covers solid-colored jackets such as blue, black, camel or Masters green. The blazer is one of the most classic and versatile pieces of a man’s wardrobe and can be worn with jeans, khakis or gray flannel trousers. It’s equipped with brass buttons. Sport coats, or jackets, encompass just about everything else.

A GOOD FIT Few men can afford a custom-made jacket tailored to every inch of their bodies. So it’s off the rack we go, and that’s OK as long as you use a tailor for alterations. Though jackets are sized from a man’s chest, they’re built from the shoulders, and that’s where a jacket should fit best. (A man’s height determines whether he needs a regular, short or long jacket.) The shoulder’s fit should be in proportion with your body, with generous armholes that allow you to wrap your arms around a trophy without lifting up the jacket. When buttoned, there should be enough room for a sweater or an extra five pounds.

TO THE TOUCH Fabrics to consider when buying a sport coat are winter, summer or 10 months. The latter is a jacket made from light, yet sturdy, wool in solids or classic menswear patterns suitable to wear 10 months of the year. It’s a good buy if you have to wear a jacket now and then. Cashmeres and other wools lend themselves to great patterns–like glenplaid, houndstooth and checks–that are easy to layer with shirts and sweaters. Summer jackets usually are made from fine wool, which is lighter than cotton and is blended with fibers such as linen, silk or nylon.

THE LITTLE THINGS Details like lapel and collar width, pocket and button types define the latest styles. To play it safe, choose lapels with classic widths between three and four inches and with the tip of the lapel reaching about halfway between the collar and the shoulder. Pockets, too, should be kept simple. Vents, the slits on the back of the jacket, are meant for ease of movement. An “American” jacket has a single vent in the middle of the garment. The “British” has one at each hip. A ventless sport coat, that hugs the body, is called a “Continental” jacket. As for buttons: two-and three-button jackets are the norm these days.

THE FINER POINTS Why does one jacket cost $200 and another $3,000? It’s the sum of the parts–better fabric, lining and buttons, a more intricate pattern and the amount of work done by hand. A designer’s name adds value as well.

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A two-button suit will give you a slimmer look. However, there are limits!

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These days the hottest shades for men and women alike are vintage aviator 1″sunglasses. Nothing beats that old school aviator look and the bigger the better. Most fashions don’t last more than a year or two but aviators still stand as the reigning champion in the sunglasses arena. Not only have they lasted more than a couple years, they’ve lasted decades. Not only have they been around longer than most fashions, anyone can wear them and look cool. There are so many different styles that everyone can wear them and still stand out from the rest of the crowd.

Aviators are always your best bet; I tend to lose or break some, so I always like to have more than one pair. The big mirrored aviators are the best for being out and about in the sun. Not only do they look cool, but man are they dark! You can almost look directly into the sun when wearing a pair(but I don’t recommend it!).

The second pair I always keep around isn’t quite so dark, so that you can still have that vintage aviator look while indoors at the mall or a party. With so many different options from large to small, gold frame to plastic frames, you can find the perfect pair of aviators to fit your every style and stand out from the crowd, even if the rest of the crowd is following the same trend.

So do yourself a favor, buy a pair of vintage aviator sunglasses. Shop around, check out different styles and prices. Stay cool people.

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When you wear your trim two-button suit, leave the belt in the closet – you don’t need one. Going beltless lends the suit a clean, confident look.

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